![]() ![]() Once you get that squared away, open the Patch Volume up to 7-10 so the "amp" breathes, and tame the overall volume with the Master. Too easy!) Only then do I put the FX back in, and as sparingly as possible at that.Īs for the actual settings, I found that the Trim (Input Level) needs to be set so that the red LED is blinking a notch or two shy of 50/50-these things are exceedingly sensitive to gain structure. So on tweaking, my personal approach (to modelers in general) is to start with bare-bones amp patches, sans FX, and build a seperate patch library of good amps for each guitar, cuz some amps and guitars just don't play well together. CTs need TLC in that dept., if you're gonna woodshed with 'em. The Other Key is beam blockers-stick a magazine in front of the speakers in the shop, or better yet, just don't point 'em straight at you. Cybers can be very harsh even at rehearsal levels straight out of the box. The Big Key to the Cyber series is gain structure-factory trim, gain, patch volume, and EQ settings-they're apparently somebody's idea of demos, but IMHO the factory patches aren't for serious playing. R&B, Classic Rock, Jimi, Metal, Alt., Grunge, Jazz, and a bit of C&W.) (Just so you know where I'm coming from, my go-home amp is still an old '69 Univox 1221-*big* sound- a keepsake I bought back when it was only a couple of years old, so I grew up on tube sound. ![]() The trick is to find a few sounds that really speak to you and focus on 'em-otherwise it can be a wild goose chase, and you may never really nail any one tone to be happy with it. ![]() I have a CyberTwin 1.2, and I get more good tones out of it than I can use, actually. Some IMHOs, good and bad-plz take these ideas with you and A/B a Cyber in a shop against some first-class tube amps and pedals. ![]()
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